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Our Monday Rhine cruise took us from Bingen at the south end of
"the Romantic Rhine" north to Braubach, where we toured
Marksburg castle. The cruise itself was nice, not as
overwhelmingly dramatic as the tour books may have led us to
believe, but a lovely boat ride in (yet more) beautiful weather.
In addition to the thousand plus-year-old castles dotting the
shore, the steep banks include numerous vineyards which were
fairly barren this time of year. We sampled
many-a-Rhine-wine during our short stay in Germany (mostly
Riesling), and found them all to be pretty good, with none
really standing out. Marksburg castle is the only castle
that you can tour which is in the same medieval state as
when it was in its prime, during its use as fancy toll-booth on
the Rhine. The hour long guided tour was all in German, so
while we didn't get much out of the narrative, we still enjoyed
seeing the inside of a real live German castle. Afterward,
we managed a long and inefficient train & ferry ride back to our
hotel where we had a long and wonderful meal in the elegant dining room
of our castle.
After all of the tourist activities the day before, we decided
to take a slow and easy pace on Tuesday. We planned
little, and enjoyed simply strolling around our town of
Oberwesel and the neighboring town of Bacharach. Bacharach
was quite nice...the quintessential old-style-German-Rhine
town. With a hilltop castle and vineyard as its backdrop,
it still has the old guard towers that linked the wall around
the formerly walled-city. Our afternoon of pretzel eating,
Riesling-flavored ice cream sampling, wine-tasting, and climbing through the vineyard to take it all
in, was the highlight of our time here on The Mighty Rhine.
Things started heading downhill from there, however, as we got
trapped in a torrential downpour climbing back up the hill
(mountain?) on the dirt (mud?) path back to our castle.
That could all be fixed though, with the showers, robes, sherry
and chocolate that awaited us in our room. The real low
point was Wednesday morning, when we discovered that our hotel
had charged us 110 euros for our phone call to make our train
reservations, after implying it would be a toll free call!
Now, while 100 euros may not be much to the wealthy people of
Europe, that's like $150 for us poor Americans (must the dollar
continue to plummet against the Euro while we're here?!)...
On that note, we're happy to leave Germany and head off to
Belgium for our visit to quaint and historic Brugge.
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"The Mighty Rhine"
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