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After the isolation of Durness, it was a shock to pull into
Inverness, the only actual city in the Highlands. It is a
popular jumping off point for tourists to begin their tours of
the Highlands and it was busy with visitors and locals, alike.
Although the population is only about 40,000 - not large, by our
American and Mexican standards - it felt like a much larger
city, bustling with car and foot traffic, department stores and
a prominent shopping mall (with a Gap, no less!) and is the
fastest-growing city in Europe. Caroline was exhausted
from all the difficult driving (well, passengering) of the past
few days, so we had a low-key evening: dinner at McDonald's and
a pint at a popular pub before heading to bed at the Palace Best
Western (yet another unimpressive yet expensive hotel), located
right on the lovely and fast-flowing River Ness.
While Caroline took this opportunity to catch up on some much
needed rest, Scott went back out to check out a 'film festival'
going on downtown. The 'festival' turned out to be a young
couple showing a few of their short films (as well as a sitcom
pilot) to mostly their friends and fellow stars of the movies in
the small 3rd floor attic of a pub. Scott actually found
it quite entertaining, and was also able to enjoy another pint
and some Scottish folk music down in the pub afterward.
In the morning, after breakfast at a mediocre French-style
cafe and a leisurely stroll on the lovely and surprisingly quiet
river walk by our hotel, it was time to leave Inverness and
start heading back south to the Borders. But first we
wanted to tour one of these castles that are so plentiful in
Scotland. There are so many scattered about the country
and the admission prices tend to be steep (as is everything
priced in pounds for us poor Americans!), so we really wanted to
pick a good one. Some are just ruins, while others have
been redone in Victorian style, and all are at varying levels of
quality in their restoration work so it can be difficult to
choose a good one. After a small amount of research at the
Inverness TI, we decided to go a little out of the way and pay a
visit to Cawdor Castle, one of the slightly less publicized
castles on offer. We were intrigued, as the original
family still lives there during the winter and offers tours of
their home during the summer months.
While the castle may not be what everyone wants to see, we
were fascinated to observe how modern-day people had made slight
modifications to a castle-home dating back centuries. Many
of the furnishings were still antiques, while some items, such
as the specially-designed tartan carpets were modern (and very
unique!). While maintaining the basic structure and
architectural elements of the original castle, the rooms on the
self-guided tour used by the family for daily life were nicely
decorated and quite cozy, indeed, and from the bedrooms you
could hear the stream burbling down below. It would have
made a lovely inn! We really enjoyed perusing the modern
family photographs scattered about the house - they all look so
Scottish! Also interesting were the old spiral stone
staircase, ancient kitchen that is no longer in use and the
small dungeon that was uncovered recently after being hidden by
restoration work completed during the 1800s. A definite
bonus was the lovely collection of the shaggy and rather
bizarre-looking Highland Cows in the pasture as you enter and
exit the castle.
Another whirlwind but wonderful trip under our belts, we
arrived, exhausted, back at Ellem Old Inn, our home exchange
house, at dusk only to discover we had no power! We rushed
about, trying to find candles and flashlights before dark and
climbed into bed. Our host's son, Aaron would be here the
next afternoon to mow the lawn and maybe he could figure
something out...
Well, to make a long story short, we waited around, called
the neighbors, and then Scott called the emergency number for
Scottish Power, since the electrical meter was actually running.
They came 'straightaway' this evening, fixed some faulty
equipment outside the house and power was restored.
And, although not overly helpful with the power situation, we
did have a lovely chat with Aaron, while he cleaned out the
freezer, and his London-ite girlfriend, Ali, before they headed
back to Edinburgh for the evening. Aaaahhhh, there's
nothing like 'living like the locals'! |

The River Ness - that's our hotel on the far right

Cawdor Castle

Cawdor Castle

Highland cow
Highland calf
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