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Getting Medieval in Deutschland  

08/28/06 - Bamberg, Germany (Germany photo album)

Experiencing Oktoberfest-like atmosphere in Bamberg before heading down the 'Romantic Road'

 
Budget airline Ryanair saves overhead by using non-mainstream airports, a la Southwest Airlines.  But little did we know that their supposed 'Frankfurt' airport was actually 80 miles west of Frankfurt... making our drive to Bamberg, 80 miles east of Frankfurt, much longer than expected.  Thank goodness for the autobahn though; we made great time!  After the long drive and a quick dinner at a roadside Burger King along the way (where we struggled to communicate with the young non-English-speaking cashier), we arrived at the posh, historic Hotel Residenzschloss and headed straight to bed.  A tame Friday night.

Bamberg:
Exploring the medieval town of Bamberg the following morning, we discovered that much of Germany would be joining us!  The annual Bamberg festival is quite an event, not unlike Oktoberfest - biergartens lining the streets, Bavarian-costumed Deutschlanders on parade, music, and lots of beer and brats... washed down with more beer and brats.  Not unlike a Big Ten tailgate party.  The town is charming, and we enjoyed seeing the old streets and buildings, but our favorite part was just finding a seat at one of the long biergarten tables to German-watch and enjoy some of the local brew - Rauchbier, a dark red beer with a smoky bacon-flavored aftertaste (meat lovers like us and the Germans can appreciate such things).  It was so tasty, it even made a beer lover out of Caroline!  That night, the real party started.  The many streets of Bamberg were all shoulder-to-shoulder with giant-beer toting revelers looking for the next spot to refill their giant steins.  It took us 15 minutes to walk about 20 yards (10 yards in one direction, then giving up and returning to 'less crowded' streets).  True chest-crushing-lack-of-crowd-management-madness.  Everyone else seemed to love it, but we decided to seek safety across the river.  The highpoint of the night?  Definitely hearing the band on the main stage singing '99 Red Balloons' (in German, of course)... I mean, c'mon!  How stereotypical can you get? We were hoping to see David Hasselhof make an appearance to give us a rendition of 'Der Kommissar', but no luck...this time, anyway.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber:
We took off early from Bamberg for a drive down the 'Romantic Road', the scenic north-south route from Wurzburg to Füssen with some of the most well preserved medieval villages and castles and scenic countryside in all of Bavaria, so our guidebooks told us.  The ride to get to this route was probably the highlight, driving through beautiful countryside and small farm villages, dotted with red-tile-roofed houses.  Eventually we made our way to our destination for the night - the world-famous and totally charming walled town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber.  Due to being largely ignored during the Renaissance renovations, it's the best preserved example of a medieval walled city.  You can definitely get a feel for what it was like living in a walled city 700 years ago (ignoring the souvenir shops and photo-happy tourists, mostly Asian and American) and it was fun to walk on the town wall around the perimeter of the city, seeing it from above.  We took the 'Nightwatchman's Tour', which started at dusk.  The costumed, lantern-and-weapon-toting Nightwatchman was perfect in his role - the highly entertaining and informative tour was definitely a highlight of our trip due to our humorous guide's excellent delivery.  The lightning storm brewing behind him really added to the atmosphere, and we even managed to pretty much finish up prior to the torrential rain starting.  We highly recommend it to all of you with plans to rush over to Rothenburg.

Alpine Southern Bavaria:
We set off on the early side (for us, anyway... around 11am) from Rothenberg in order to drive the remainder of the the Romantic Road route.  It started raining almost immediately after setting off, and several sections of the route appeared to be closed off with no detour signs... So we took the highway straight to the southern end of the route, figuring we'd drive back north the next day on our way to Münich.  The lovely German farmland abruptly turned into the stunning scenery of the Alps, with tall, jagged mountains setting the backdrop for the chalet-style homes dotting the green hills in the foreground.  We quickly found a hotel (no small feat for us) in downtown Füssen, then decided to take the 20 minute drive into the Tirol region of Austria for dinner.  Not much going on in Reutte, Austria, so we headed back to Füssen for Italian food, since we were only about 50 miles as the crow flies from Italy.  Enjoying tasty food and wine in a restaurant filled with Italian tourists, it hard to remember we were in Germany.  The rain rarely let up all day, so there wasn't much site-seeing for us in this region... hoping tomorrow it clears up so we can take photos of those handsome cows wearing their stylish, Bavarian cowbells.

Caroline looks happy to fly the budget airways!

Typical German - they all dress like this... really!

Mmmm, bacon beer! A beer lover is born.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The Nightwatchman poses with the silly tourists before setting off on the tour

More rain... aren't we cute in our matching jackets? Don't answer that.

Fashionable cows wear the latest in cowbell-wear