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This morning (after a breakfast of PopTarts, bananas and coffee
in our room), upon the recommendation of the hotel manager, we
stopped at Elk Falls Provincial Park just north of town to do a
short hike to a waterfall. Upon setting out, Caroline was
thinking "you've seen one waterfall, you've seen them all."
Well, boy was she wrong! Due to all the rain they've had
this summer on the Island, it was flowing, I mean really
flowing. We both agreed that it was the most amazing
waterfall we'd ever seen and well worth the stop. At mid-day,
we stopped for lunch and a small touring break in the tiny
community of Telegraph Cove. A quaint, picturesque little
place, entirely built on stilts over the water, not much goes on
here except tour departures and eating/drinking at the
over-hyped Killer Whale Cafe, where we ate lunch. We did
pay a brief visit to the mildly interesting marine conservation
awareness museum, the Whale Interpretive Center, where they had
some nice (and HUGE) whale skeletons on display.
Next it was on to our stopping point for the night, Port
Hardy. As we drive north, places are seeming increasingly
rustic. Gone are the Starbuckses and MacDonaldses of
Campbell River... Our motel for the night, The Pioneer, is a
case in point. An interesting sort of place, I'll give it
that. Our neighbors were a bunch of bikers and there were
some small RV/campers out back that looked like they'd been
there for a while. Beyond that, the photos will just have
to speak for themselves...you'll see. But it was all worth
it because on the road into town we spotted our first black bear
just off the side of the road...and another....and another...
Oh, the excitement is just too much! They pay absolutely
no attention to the traffic whizzing by on the highway (unlike
the local drivers and truckers, who fly by as close as they can
to your car and give a long honk, if you pull over to get a
closer look at the bears), just grazing on the side of the road,
like deer or cows might. It's quite a bizarre and amazing
sight! All in all, we saw at least 10 bears, including a
cub or two, making the trip more than worthwhile.

No, that's not Scott at the precipice of the falls behind the
"Area Closed" sign... it's some other disobedient tourist

Post lunch photo shoot in Telegraph Cove

Telegraph Cove

The Pioneer Inn!

This range might just be one of the newer pieces of inventory at
the Pioneer |
Elk Falls - Mucha Agua!

The top of the rapids, prior to Elk Falls

Kayakers in scenic Telegraph Cove. Those snow-capped
mountains in the background are mainland British Columbia
Telegraph Cove

Feeling Welcomed to Port Hardy

1st class amenities at the Pioneer Inn

One of many bear sightings - they're quite camera shy |