Wednesday, June 3, 2015

Upstate New York Roadtrip: Part 2 - Hudson Valley

May 24 - 26 , 2105
Fishkill/Poughkeepsie and surrounding areas, NY

A new installation at Storm King Art Center

Upon rolling into the Hudson Valley early Sunday afternoon, we went in search of lunch. Finding nothing in Ossining, we continued on to the tiny town of Peekskill, where we stumbled upon a small collection of restaurants with sidewalk tables and umbrellas. We chose the pleasant-looking Division Street Grill, where we were treated to odd/bad service from an older guy who told us that he lives in the city in a rent-controlled apartment he inherited from his grandmother for which he pays about $650/month (!!!) and comes up to Peekskill on the weekends to work (but apparently, mostly to shoot the shit with his friends and acquaintances, in our estimation anyway).  The warm duck salad we shared was delightful and the low-key atmosphere was a welcome change from the frenetic weekend brunch scene in the city. 


After lunch we checked into yet another Hilton Garden Inn (after a bit of a scheduling snafu, as we had accidentally booked dates for the following weekend - oops!) in the sterile, commercial center of Fishkill, NY and went off in search of our first Hudson River bridge experience. 

As it makes its way north of New York City and into upstate New York, the Hudson River becomes quite substantial and has numerous bridge crossings.  The Bear Mountain Bridge is one such crossing.  It is a pretty standard vehicle crossing with a sidewalk for pedestrians but I had read that there is a nice suspension footbridge from which you can view the Bear Mountain Bridge as it crosses the Hudson River.  On our quest for said footbridge view point, we got a bit lost and confused and our search involved hiking, in the heat and humidity, through the Fort Montgomery State Historic Site, the scene of an important Revolutionary War battle, and now consisting mostly of piles of rocks from old foundations and walls and a few cannons.  Finally, we found the small footbridge, which is vaguely picturesque in and of itself if you like suspension footbridges (which I suppose that I do) and we gazed at the Bear Mountain Bridge from the middle of the smaller bridge.


The Popolopen Suspension Footbridge with Bear Mountain Bridge in the background
Popolopen Suspension Footbridge
 The most interesting thing about the Bear Mountain Bridge is that it is part of the Appalachian Trail, which traverses approximately 2,200 miles from Georgia all the way to Maine and crosses through Bear Mountain State Park as it passes through New York.  So, as it turns out, not very interesting at all (unless you are hiking this particular section of the AT, I guess).


Bear Mountain Bridge, with a freight train passing below
On Monday morning, we visited the Storm King Art Center, so named due to its location near the Storm King Mountain, which is visible from parts of the park.  A definite highlight of our trip, the Center has a small indoor exhibit space but the main attraction is its 500 acres of rolling hills, grassy meadows and shaded woodlands which provide a beautiful backdrop for a variety of over-sized sculptures, including several Calders.


Scott contemplates the uncharacteristically drab Calder at Storm King Art Center
Although the insects were a bit bothersome as a result of the high humidity (we were expecting rain), we thoroughly enjoyed our morning park-like stroll.  Even though we visited on Memorial Day, the crowds were thin when we arrived shortly after opening and we felt like we had the sculptures nearly all to ourselves. 

Storm King Art Center
By the time we left around noon, however, the holiday weekend daytrippers were arriving en masse and we were horrified to see the incredibly long line of cars waiting to get in, snaking almost all the way to the main road.  Vacation score!   

After lunch we thought we'd try another bridge, this time actually walking across the Hudson River.  Much more interesting for tourists than the Bear Mountain Bridge is the wide, pedestrian-only (and bicycle friendly) Walkway Over the Hudson that was created from an old railroad bridge.


Walkway Over the Hudson
The bridge wasn't particularly crowded even on a warm holiday afternoon
 Completed just last year is a cool glass elevator you can board to reach the bridge from the pleasant park below, which is the easiest access point and located in Poughkeepsie right near the train station. 


On the elevator to the bridge
The elevator ride alone would have made the trip worthwhile, but the bridge itself offered serene views of the river below and the stiff breezes high over the Hudson were a welcome respite from the continued heat and humidity.  


View of the Bear Mountain Bridge from the Walkway Over the Hudson
Did I mention it was a tad breezy on the bridge?
Later that afternoon, we made a brief tour of the famed Culinary Institute of America campus, where we hope to return one day for a student-made meal of presumably the highest quality.


On the campus of the CIA
This was followed by a stroll around a portion of the substantial grounds at the Vanderbilt Mansion and a stop-off at the Rhinecliff Hotel, located near historic Rhinebeck, for some necessary afternoon riverfront refreshment.  We deemed these two locales also worthy of return visits.


The Vanderbilt Mansion has an imposing presence high on the banks of the Hudson
Cool refreshment on a hot afternoon at the Rhinecliff Hotel 
More photos:
The Popolopen Suspension Footbridge in Bear Mountain State Park
Enjoying Poughkeepsie's waterfront dining scene at Ice House
Enjoying Poughkeepsie's waterfront dining scene at Ice House
Storm King Art Center
More colorful sculptures Storm King Art Center
Storm King Art Center  
Storm King Art Center
New installation at Storm King Art Center
Storm King Art Center
The lovely wooded section at Storm King Art Center



Calder Selfie!
Three Legged Buddha at Storm King Art Center

The Three Legged Buddha is apparently a popular sculpture at Storm King. We were fortunate to have time alone to admire it.
Storm King Art Center
Storm King Art Center
View of the Walkway Over the Hudson from the elevator below
The Walkway Over the Hudson elevator rising to meet the bridge
Vanderbilt Mansion
The Vanderbilt Mansion has a  stunning view over the Hudson Valley
Vanderbilt Mansion
Cheers from the Rhinecliff!
Enjoying the open-air bar at Shadows on the Hudson in Poughkeepsie
Bridge and sunset views from Shadows on the Hudson

Monday, June 1, 2015

Upstate New York Roadtrip: Part 1 - Long Island

May 23 - 24, 2015
Islip and surrounding areas, Long Island, NY

We're not in Manhattan anymore!
As planned, we recently ventured out on a driving tour into Upstate New York for nine days over Memorial Day week.  It was our first trip of any length since moving to NYC over three months ago and we were excited to see what our new home state had to offer.  The areas just north of the city (referred to as Upstate New York by anyone who lives in New York City), specifically the Hudson Valley which runs along both sides of the Hudson River, connected by several bridge crossings, and the Catskills Park region just to the northwest of the Hudson Valley proved to be positively beautiful, with lots of leafy trees, green grass, misty mountains, rivers and waterfalls and we packed a lot of sights in on our driving adventure.  

To kick off our trip, we spent just one night, Saturday, at a Hilton Garden Inn on Long Island just to the west of anything that might be considered fashionable, due to price and central location concerns.  After a travel-heavy morning and leaving the bulk of the Long Island traffic behind, we relaxed a bit over lunch at a cute, old-school diner.


First stop, Cutchogue, NY!
After lunch, we drove out to the end of the North Fork where you can catch a car ferry to Connecticut (so tempting...).  


At Orient Point, NY, looking across Long Island Sound, with the car ferry to Connecticut in the background
The trip to the tip of the North Fork to check out Long Island Sound and stare across the water to Connecticut was bookended by some lovely wine tasting, also in the North Fork, first at Bedell Cellars. 


We shared a tasting at Bedell, which was a good thing because the tasting pours were HUGE!
And then at  Croteaux, a rosé-only winery.  We enjoyed the wines at both and would definitely return!


Enjoying the sunshine and rosé at the oh-so-charming outdoor tasting room at Croteaux
Charming, old-but-pristine, white-washed churches with tall, narrow steeples appeared on every block, in between the farm stands (not as plentiful as I had imagined, but it was early in the season) and plant nurseries.  "Why are people on Long Island buying this many plants?" I was forced to wonder. I had read about how idyllic it was up here, but quite frankly, while perfectly pleasant, aside from the wineries we visited, it fell a little short of my expectations.

On Sunday, we checked out of the hotel and headed west and north to the Hudson Valley.  But before continuing on to the charming small towns of the Hudson Valley, we planned a couple of Long Island stops on our route.  First, we visited Sagamore Hill National Historic Site, the summer home of Teddy Roosevelt and his family.  The home itself was actually closed for renovations but the park ranger on duty invited us to wander the grounds, free of charge. This was fine with us, as we rarely take the time to tour historic homes anymore.  The old adage "you've seen one, you've seen 'em all" truly does seem to apply here and when you've traveled as much as we have, well...   


Scott does his best Teddy Roosevelt pose on the porch at Sagamore Hill
After we skulked around the closed-up house for a bit, peeking in the windows and such, we took the short nature trail to the small beach and wetlands area, which was quite lovely on a warm spring morning.


The beach at Sagamore Hill
Our next stop was Sands Point Preserve, which proved to be truly worth skipping unless you want to pay $10 to picnic and swim at a small, uninspiring beach.  


The grand homes just beyond the meh public beach - no riffraff allowed
The most noteworthy sight here is the enormous turreted former stable and servants quarters from back in the roaring '20s Gold Coast days of the Vanderbilts, Chryslers and Guggenheims, which is now a visitor center, adjacent to the giant parking lot.  It is shocking to think that horses once lived in such a grand structure!

And fro here, it was on to Hudson Valley for the next phase of our road trip! Stay tuned!

More photos:
In Orient, NY for all the ferry riders coming from Connecticut
Tasting room at Bedell
Tasting room at Bedell. We so want this wine storage wall in our next house!
Croteaux Vineyards
Croteaux Vineyards
Tasting at Croteaux
 The conveniently located gift shop at Croteaux allows you to shop while you taste...




We enjoyed an old-school seafood dinner with a view at Kingston's Clam Bar near our Islip Hilton Garden Inn accommodations
The house at Sagamore Hill

Sagamore Hill Selfie!
Skipping stones at Sagamore Hill
 

Marshlands at Sagamore Hill
Strolling the nature trail at Sagamore Hill